THMotorsports has been involved in track racing for some time and if you know anything about the track, braking is something that you do not want to go cheap on. Most people overlook this simple braking improvement of simply upgrading your stock brake lines for steel braded lines. Why should you upgrade your brake lines? It's simple. Steel braided brake lines keep braking performance strong because they don't swell like rubber lines can. A swollen line decreases the bake fluid pressure, which will compromise the vehicle's overall braking power. A result of this is diminished brake pedal feel:
It will be difficult for the driver to modulate the brakes properly because the pedal will feel squishy or sloppy. Braided steel brake lines also protect against nicks and tears from road debris while maintaining flexibility and a firm grip on the brake part it connects to.
It's not a difficult task to remove and replace OEM brake lines with steel braded brake lines. THMotorsports shows you how:
17 MM Wrench
13 MM Wrench / Flared Wrench
14 MM Wrench
10 MM Flared Wrench
10 MM Wrench (for Bleeding)
Flat Head Screwdriver
Vice Grips (This is for when your 10MM Rounds off >.<)
Jack / Jack Stands
Difficulty: 4 / 10
Time Required: 60 Min
This install requires that you remove your wheel to get to the lines. This install isn’t too bad but even with “Flared” wrenches I managed to round the 10 MM on the brake line so I suggest vice grips so you don’t destroy them and save yourself some time.
At the other end of the line there is a 17MM (This has been reported as 16MM but 17 fit mine) and a 10MM below. You can TRY to use both 10 MM Flared and 17MM to get them undone. If your round them off break out the vice grips place on the 10MM and turn will break free no problems.
The rears are about the same but I found that the 10 MM Broke free a lot easier then the front. Then the 14MM on the back is kind of tricky to get into to tighten. However still easier then the front I think.
Bleeding the Brakes:
The way I am doing this is a 2 person job. There are other ways to do this such as pressurized system, speed bleeders etc. I will show the 2 person system way and then an additional way but still 2 man.
Since we replaced all 4 lines it is suggested to start with the brake furthest from the master cylinder. (Rear Passenger, Read Driver, Front Passenger then Front Driver) Put the car on jack stands and remove all the wheels. You don’t have to do this but makes this much faster.
Brake it free and re tighten. Then have the 2nd person pump the brake pedal 4-5 Times then Hold. Release the valve and re tighten. The goal here is to remove the air so loosen the bleeder and re tighten before the pedal hits the floor. Have the person pump and hold again. Repeat this until you have a steady stream coming out of the bleeder.
The other way which is not shown right now is hook up a hose to the bleeder into a cup of fluid so that when you release the valve it cannot suck up any air back into the system. I will be doing this later as I still have a tiny bit of air in my lines. Still the same tactic just add a hose and cup of brake fluid.
THMotorsports and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing things incorrectly these are only guides. However if you follow these guides and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guides.